Gallery : Photo Album - Day 18 Fortuna Bay to Grytviken
Video : The Shackleton Hike
Polar Pioneer left Bay of Isles after sunset the day before, took us to Fortuna Bay for a quiet night, ahead of a long anticipated highlight of the expedition.
The bright sunrise promised a good day for hiking.
We had an early but good breakfast, ahead of a 4 hour hike, over a moderate mountain pass, to Stromness Bay. Non-hikers had their normal routine, and shall meet us at Stromness Bay later in the morning.
Shortly after 06:30, we hikers were onshore, eager and ready to retrace Shackleton's steps. The trek was the final dash for help, 3 weeks after leaving his expedition team at Elephant island, sailed nearly 1300 Km to King Haakon Bay on a life saving dingy. He and two others then crossed the uncharted mountains and glaciers without equipment and reached Stromness Bay whaling station, to raise a recuse mission, which eventually saved his entire expedition team. We only do the final 6 or 7 Km of the entire harrowing 36 hours hike which Shackleton did.
The hike started with a moderately steep climb, but no one seemed fazed.
Up, up and up.
Shackleton would have come through those mountains and glaciers.
Leveling out.
Near the highest point, and still going strong.
Sparing a moment to contemplate how Shackleton et co made through those glaciers to reach here.
Marveling at the amazing landscape at the same time...
The worst was behind us, but I could not call our hike difficult. A quick tally, it seemed no one was missing.
One last look back towards Fortuna Bay.
Finally, Stromness Bay came into view.
This was where Shackleton first saw signs of civilization after nearly 18 months, in May 1916. At this point, I would imagine that he must have been elated, though in a very poor state physically.
All gathered for more photos, and the final descent, down a slippery slope.
Descending down a steep slope with loose rocks, a step at a time.
Finally we all reached level ground, and rendezvoused with our non-hikers.
Then the final walk to the beach...
The now abandoned whaling station which Shackleton was able to raise the alarm, and sent a boat to firstly, pickup two others, who were unfit to continue after landing at King Haakon Bay. Then went on to organise a rescue mission to retrieve the 22 others stranded on Elephant Island. Not a single crew member was lost.
And the old cemetery from the whaling station days.
What a hike, but I can't say it is a difficult hike, but very scenic and historical. Mind you, this was only the last and the easiest leg of the original Shackleton desperate hike of 36 hours.
Here is the video of the entire hike - The Shackleton Hike
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| Our hike from Fortuna Bay to Stromness Bay |
So it was time to reboard the mother ship.
Shortly after a sumptuous lunch of Pasta with Roast Vegetables, we can feel the boat was lowering its anchoring. We had arrived at the Port of Grytviken, the capital of South Georgia and South Sandwich Island. But probably, "Administration Center" is more apt, even that may be an overstatement, as we soon learnt.
Prior to going onshore, two scientists and the Harbour Master coming on board. Whilst the scientists were presenting to us what their projects were, plus a bit of their personal experience living in this remote location months on ends, the Harbour Master finalised the routine documentation checks etc., and cleared us to disembark.
Though we've landed so many times on South Georgia, but this is the first time we ran into anyone official, or any other human settlements.
Our first activity on shore, accompanied by our onboard historian, Steve, was to visit the local cemetery, where Shackleton was entombed. Shackleton died unexpectedly from a heart-attack here, on a subsequent expedition visit, after the historic failed but heroic mission.
Led by Steve, we gave our respect to Shackleton, by toasting a drink in the front of his grave.
A very enthusiastic manager of Grytviken Museum then gathered us and gave a walking tour of Grytviken, in particular, the history of the whaling station here, founded by Norwegians.
She described the working conditions, pollution resulting from the butchering and processing the whales, not to mention the horrible hunting and killing of them in the first place. And also the almost male only life surrounding the industry.
There are almost no permanent population here, most non-scientific and civilian staff only come here during the tourist seasons.
Then we walked to survey the small number of buildings on site,
the Museum and amenities.
And of course, the Shackleton story is a major story here too.
There are no no EFPOS or Credit card machines on site, for obvious reasons. So whatever purchases we use our credit cards for, they wouldn't appear on our statement for months, until after the museum staff return to England.
Likewise for any mails sent, try snail mail if in a hurry ! One of the administration staff is the Deputy Post Master, guess what he would be carrying on his next boat trip home.
About a kilometer away, at King Edward Point, are the scientific station cum administration buildings.
Whilst we were strolling, our hardworking kayakers were still exploring the various crevices in the harbour, good on them !
Back on board, a fancy hat party was organised with ample BBQ fares, entertaining our shore guests, thanking them for organising such fantastic weather. I didn't know they have carnivals in South Georgia too!!
Prior to going onshore, two scientists and the Harbour Master coming on board. Whilst the scientists were presenting to us what their projects were, plus a bit of their personal experience living in this remote location months on ends, the Harbour Master finalised the routine documentation checks etc., and cleared us to disembark.
Though we've landed so many times on South Georgia, but this is the first time we ran into anyone official, or any other human settlements.
Our first activity on shore, accompanied by our onboard historian, Steve, was to visit the local cemetery, where Shackleton was entombed. Shackleton died unexpectedly from a heart-attack here, on a subsequent expedition visit, after the historic failed but heroic mission.
Led by Steve, we gave our respect to Shackleton, by toasting a drink in the front of his grave.
She described the working conditions, pollution resulting from the butchering and processing the whales, not to mention the horrible hunting and killing of them in the first place. And also the almost male only life surrounding the industry.
There are almost no permanent population here, most non-scientific and civilian staff only come here during the tourist seasons.
This well kept church is still a functional church, but rarely used these days.
The original living quarters of the whale station staff, now occupied by the seasonal administrative residents.
the Museum and amenities.
And of course, the Shackleton story is a major story here too.
There are no no EFPOS or Credit card machines on site, for obvious reasons. So whatever purchases we use our credit cards for, they wouldn't appear on our statement for months, until after the museum staff return to England.
Likewise for any mails sent, try snail mail if in a hurry ! One of the administration staff is the Deputy Post Master, guess what he would be carrying on his next boat trip home.
About a kilometer away, at King Edward Point, are the scientific station cum administration buildings.
Whilst we were strolling, our hardworking kayakers were still exploring the various crevices in the harbour, good on them !
Our guests left, anchor lifted, where to now !!
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